When foodists talk about the deceased restaurants of East Los Angeles, you will always hear mention of Gallo’s Grill, which for a time gave the neighborhood a glimpse at what a Mexican steakhouse might be: warm, thick corn tortillas patted to order; fresh salsas perched on intricate wrought-iron stands; and garlicky steaks served still sizzling, flanked by warm quesadillas and charred scallions.
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El Gallo Grill Jonathan Gold
